🔗 Share this article

Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred names. But, tucked near the top among these food titans is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has made the family utterly shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small place achieving such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary honour.